Today Hendrik’s parents booked a tour to some of the places around Cairns. All the tours including the ones to Cape Tribulation were booked and this one was the only one available. Hendrik and I were less then thrilled to know we would be going back to Paronella Park and thought it would have been much wiser to just rent a car.

We went with Tropical Horizons Tours and the first stop was Lake Barrine where we had tea and scones, yes I felt like I had aged 50 years in a matter of 2 hours. Then we went on a cruise around the lake which was relatively small. The guide pointed out as many snakes and birds as he could but there just weren’t that many. We didn’t see any cassowaries or a platypus.

Giant curtain fig tree

The next stop was also my favourite which was the Giant Curtain Fig tree. I thought it was pretty spectacular the way the tree grew but it was also impossible to take a descent picture of since we couldn’t back up far enough. Then we were off to the Millaa Millaa waterfall, which was pretty and had lunch by the Mungalli waterfall. There was a 30 minute hike to the waterfall but we didn’t have time to do the hike so that was disappointing. So we didn’t get a good view of that waterfall.

How the tree formed

After lunch we did the Ma Mu Rainforest Canopy Walkway which was nice and our guide was well informed. The last stop was Paronella Park which Hendrik and I skipped and relaxed outside in the café. I wouldn’t recommend this tour to people who have a limited time in Cairns. Go to Port Douglas and Cape Tribulation but as a tour it was well organized and the tour guide was very nice and passionate about nature and Australia.

Ma Mu Rainforest

This concluded the trip with Hendrik’s parents and the next day we all had morning flights, and Hendrik and I went back to Melbourne.

Yesterday we spent relaxing and shopping in Cairns so there was nothing worth mentioning. Today we set off to the Great Barrier Reef. We went with Reef Magic since they had something for everyone. Hendrik and I wanted to go diving, Hendrik’s dad wanted to snorkel, and Hendrik’s mom just wanted to relax. Reef Magic takes people to a pontoon, Marine World, where people can dive, snorkel, relax in lounge chairs, go on a semi-sub, or view the ocean from an underwater viewing gallery. So this was the best option for us.

The ride out to the reef was rough as usual so I took my travel-calm but many people did barf. I just stared out at the horizon the whole time. The ride to the reef is the worst thing about going to the reef from Cairns since it takes about 2 hours and it’s terrible.

Once there we went diving straight away. There is a platform that is underwater under Marine World to which stairs lead and this is for divers to enter the water. I really liked it since it was so smooth and allowed me to get situated with my BC and flippers while being able to stand in the water making the load on my back light. The reef was really nice below Marine World. We were with a group and had a guide and she was able to point out many interesting creatures like a trumpet fish which I had not seen yet while diving and three nemo families. Then we saw Wally, the resident Maori Wrasse which we each took a picture with. They had a really great photographer, much better than on the Kangaroo Explorer and I got a nice shot with Wally. He definitely does wonders for Reef Magic since everyone has to buy the picture because it’s so cool.

Me and Wally

After the dive Hendrik and I went on the semi-sub which was nice because of the live commentary but I would suggest them to wash their windows more often since lots of green stuff grew on it covering the view. We were still able to see sharks, a green turtle, and a unicorn fish. The buffet lunch was good and then we had one more dive. This time we were taken with the semi-sub to another part of the reef and dived there. All the comforts of getting into the water were reversed and it was very uncomfortable wearing the large and heavy oxygen tank on a little dingy.

Snorkling on the reef

This dive went well, and we saw two reef sharks, barracudas, and a feather star which I was able to touch. After the dive it was time to go back to Cairns which was a shame because we had no time to go snorkelling. I wouldn’t have minded spending another hour on Marine World. The ride home was smooth so it was much more pleasant and bearable. I really enjoyed Reef Magic and think they do a wonderful job.

We woke up at 4:15 so we would be at the park at 5:00AM which was opening time. It was a beautiful ride through the desert as dawn was breaking coloring the desert and Uluru/Ayers Rock. Unfortunately by this point Hendrik’s camera had totally broken and was unsalvageable and mine was also slowly deteriorating and refused to turn on. It seemed to only turn on when I didn’t actually need it to but when I did it wouldn’t. So unfortunately we don’t have pictures of this morning.

The sun had not yet risen when we started the Valley of the Winds hike around the Olgas/kata Tjuta and the earth was still cool. We had loads of water with us this time but it was pretty unnecessary since it was cool and there are 3 water stops along the hike. It was a beautiful hike and often strenuous. There were signs everywhere that depicted a stick figure falling on rocks which we thought was funny. The walk only took us about 2 hours and progressively it became hotter and hotter. We passed by many people just beginning the walk when we had ended and thought to ourselves that we definitely wouldn’t want to start in this heat. It wasn’t even 9:00AM and it was already hot. It was a gorgeous hike and I definitely recommend getting up early for it because the switch of colors and temperature from night to day are amazing.

We were glad we had made good time because we needed a shower and we would still make breakfast and yes buffet breakfasts excite me. I have to admit as food goes the Ayers Rock Resort was one of the nicest (far better than at Kings Canyon Resort) and I enjoyed the dinner as well as brekky. After breakfast we had a few hours to kill before we had to catch the plane so I just surfed the internet and hung out by the pool.

The Uluru Airport is tiny and is there solely for a rock. I thought that was pretty funny that a rock can have its own airport. We arrived in Cairns in the evening, booked a Great Barrier Reef tour on Reef Magic for the day after next, and just relaxed.

Day 5. The last day of diving, which was relieving because the whole thing had been so exhausting. The first dive was again at 6:00 AM and I was cold and tired. Knowing I had to go down 30 meters was scary and I didn’t want the dive to begin. I went to get a wetsuit early to have a newer one and pulled the tight black rubbery thing around my skin, then slung the rest of the equipment on. We swam around the coral and way sooner than I expected we were on a sandy patch 27 meters underwater. I hadn’t noticed the descent, which was comforting and I didn’t feel much different from 5 meters to 27. At least the pressure mostly affects the ears only 10 meters deep so they were fine too.
One curious silver flat fish which was about a foot long and half foot high swam around us inspecting the new creatures in its environment. The instructor cracked open an egg and because of the pressure the white had sucked itself around the yoke that it appeared to be in cling wrap and was unbreakable. It felt like a mini rubbery stress ball. After we passed it around the curious fish got to have an unusual snack. Then we had to take a narc test in case the nitrogen was affecting us and making us high or “narced” I had to point at numbers in order on a chart and after each touch my nose. No one in the group was narced.
The second dive of the day after breakfast was a fun dive and Hendrik and I got the camera this time since we missed our turn and we took lots of pictures, and saw a sting ray which was exciting. It went well except that Hendrik almost ran out of air which was bad since I missed his signal for ascent, but it wasn’t a big deal because we were just doing our safety stop and we were close to the surface but it still gave me a scare.
I was sad that our last dive wasn’t a fun dive but we wanted to get certified as an adventure diver and therefore had to pass a navigation course. In between our two dives we had to learn how to use a compass underwater. We had a lesson while the ship was moving which was terrible since I felt incredibly nauseas because it wasn’t the best weather and the sea was quite choppy. I took a pill but would have still enjoyed being in the fresh air and looking at the horizon. I said I understood everything even though I really hadn’t paid attention at all since my stomach had taken all my attention. After the lesson I went outside ASAP and Hendrik explained what I needed to do with the compass underwater, which was very easy.
I had to use the compass to swim in a straight line and Hendrik had to count 30 kicks and then I had to make a 180 and go back to where we came from. Then we would switch rolls and make a square in the same fashion. It was very easy and everyone accomplished the task during the dive. Then we explored the reef a bit more and I got to pet a huge turtle which was the last animal I really wanted to see because I had already seen nemo, a shark, a sting ray, and lastly I wanted a turtle to make diving complete. The only thing I didn’t see which I had wanted to was Dory. Then it was time to get back on the small boat and endure another long bouncy wet journey back to Cairns.
We went out for dinner with our diving class mates that night and had a go at salsa dancing which the lessons I took were of no help since I’m hopeless in rhythm.

As a whole I was really glad I made it through the week and got certified, because diving was something I’d always wanted to experience but I can’t say it was super amazing. Many people found it freeing but I found the opposite. I felt constrained. Constrained to a computer and air supply which I checked obsessively, and constrained by props that weren’t natural like a mask, flippers, wetsuit, and silence. I found the underwater to be eerily silent. Also the air was so dry it would dry up my mouth making it uncomfortable. It wasn’t as spectacular as I thought it would be but I would do it again, definitely especially since I would only have fun dives now since I’m certified. I also think that a nice saltwater aquarium might bring me more pleasure, but that’ll be another investment.

Day 3. Today was going to be the first time diving in the ocean on the Great Barrier Reef. First we had to be transported from Cairns to a bigger live-aboard boat, since we were going to spend 2 nights on the boat. I had a package of sea-sick pills with me, which I’m really glad I bought before the trip. I took one before the departure since I still did not trust my stomach even though I am usually fine on small boats. It took two hours to get to the reef which surprised me since I thought Cairns was practically sitting on the reef. The waves were rough, and the boat swayed hard from left to right soaking everyone on board. The journey was too cramped and too long and by the end of it more than half the passengers were standing in the back staring out onto the horizon with their pale faces.

When we arrived to the big boat we were given our rooms, lunch, and then it was time for the first dive. Getting ready was the same as in the pool but when I stepped into the water it was salt and not chlorine I tasted and that’s when my nerves started. Thoughts about not being able to equalize, not being able to breath, or not being able to do the skills in the ocean ran through my mind and I began to feel panicked.

Once we were all in the water we were to begin the decent. Since it was our first time we were supposed to hang on to a rope which attached the boat to a huge cement block. We all lined up along the rope with our buddies and let the air out of our BC to descend. The rope was slimy and green but I clung to it as if it would somehow save me. Very slowly I moved my hands down the rope equalizing at every inch. When my ears bothered me I’d inch upwards again, and I did this a few times. The bottom arrived sooner than I expected and we kneeled in a semi circle around the instructor as we had in the pool but now we were on a patch of sand. We did our skills for the last time for the instructor because this was our test we had to pass to get certified. Once in a while a fish would distract me but I managed to do everything well and then it was time to go back to the surface. Ascending is easier since you don’t have to equalize, but it has to be done slowly, 9 meters a minute to be exact. When my head broke the surface I was relieved, and felt comforted breathing air not from a tube.

I thought it was over but we had more tests on the surface such as removing and fastening the weight belt in the water. I didn’t know the point of this exercise since if I was to take off the weight belt I would drop it and therefore couldn’t put it back on. The problem was my belt was even heavier than it was in the pool and shorter, meaning I had no slack to grasp to buckle it. I did panic a bit thinking I’d drop the belt to the bottom of the ocean, since it is very heavy to hold, or that I plain and simple wouldn’t be able to put it on again. After some time of struggling I managed to buckle it around my waist again. Then we had to take off the BC and put it back on, but that was easy and I could do it with no problem.

I was definitely glad when I was back on the boat and relieved of all the heavy equipment, but knew I’d be back in the water sooner than I necessarily wanted to.

I was a bit more relaxed during the second dive. We sank into the water without the aid of a rope which was more calming than crawling down the rope, and this time we did some sight seeing of the coral world. The only thing I could hear is the wheezing sound of breathing through my regulator and the bubbles which then formed as I exhaled. It can either be a very calming or nerve wreaking sound. We played follow the leader with our instructor and saw magnificently colored fish and sea life. I loved looking at all the creatures but couldn’t help feeling that I was just inside an aquarium exhibit and not in the vast ocean.

Near the end of the dive we had to do one more skill before we could be certified and that was sharing air in case your buddy ran out. I was paired with Hendrik and we did everything well, hand signals and me giving him my spare regulator correctly. Then as we slowly ascended together with linked arms and we nearly reached the top Hendrik decided he was done and let go and blew up his BC with air from the tank, forgetting that he was supposed to be out of air and with the aid of using me as a flotation device he was supposed to blow up his BC with his mouth. So we failed the bit and had to do it the next day again. I didn’t let him live that one down.

After the second dive I was totally exhausted and didn’t know how I was going to manage four dives the next day. That night we filled in our dive log books and went to bed early, since our first dive was at 6 in the morning. I felt ill as the bed swayed on the waves and had to take another pill which was like magic. The pills were the only reason I survived that trip. I didn’t sleep too much however since I have trouble sleeping in new environments especially if those environments move.

Right away Cairns reminded me of Florida. An unnecessary amount of sprawl, two lanes for every road and brightly lit shops filled with tourist trinkets. Tourists in their khakis eat overpriced, not so great food, and fall into tourist traps. We were glad we had a five day scuba diving course ahead of us because we would not know what to do with ourselves in Cairns otherwise, but then again we wouldn’t be there for so long otherwise. I was super excited but also nervous about learning how to dive. We had to get up bright and early for the lessons so I decided to have a coffee in the morning, before going to the diving center. I thought the milk was sour because it tasted rancid, but I didn’t think too much of it since Hendrik had one too and he didn’t seem to think it was bad.

I soon forgot about the coffee as I began to sign my name over and over again on forms for the diving school. Then we were told all about the dangers of scuba and the possible injuries such as lung expansion, the bends, and suffocation. I felt quite woozy after that but decided I was just really nervous. Come lunchtime I ate my sandwich not out of hunger but because I thought I had to eat.

We started off in the pool, where we had to take a swimming test. I swam around the pool no problem but since I did not have goggles, the over chlorinated water irritated my eyes so much that I couldn’t see clearly or open them properly for the rest of the day which was really handy when I had to learn how all the equipment fits together and how to use it.

By the end of the lesson after we learned some skills in the shallow end we were finally allowed to go to the bottom of the four meter pool. Everyone disappeared under the water and I tried to do the same but my ear wouldn’t equalize no matter how hard I blew into my pinched nose. As I went deeper the pain increased and I had to go back up. I forced myself to back down and swam around a bit even though my ear was still in pain.

I was relieved when it was over and I could climb out of the water, and that’s when I felt all the weight. To add to an aluminum tank I had a weight belt around my waist too so I would sink. It was wonderful to take it off, but I was shaking, I couldn’t see, and my ear hurt. Luckily the instructor picked my equipment to dismantle as show so I didn’t have to bother putting anything away and just went to change.

I felt nauseous before I got into the van to go back to town, so I sat in the front. As we neared our destination I didn’t think I’d make it. Then the van came to a halt and the instructor began to tell us about tomorrow. I just got out closed the door and puked on the Cairn’s street. Right in front of the whole van so everyone in my class had a front row view.

I left ASAP and went straight to bed and spent the whole day sleeping as my body purged itself. I was embarrassed, miserable, and absolutely terrified of diving. I didn’t think I’d go diving again and tried to convince Hendrik to go without me.